If you have been following what I have been up to recently, you will have seen the Prototype Shetland Tweed jacket I made, followed by a couple of proper jackets.
Now I have nailed what I need to do, I thought I’d share a few bit of making them.
So, next thing I need to sort out are the sleeves.
This is marked at the cuffs (see left) and at the sleeve-head (see above, left), where I also mark the horizontal stripes that need to align across to the body.
I then chalk the stitch-line for the cuff mitre.
The cuff is then folded diagonally from the corner point, and I stitch along the chalk-line. I then trim to a standard seam allowance, and press the cuff flat, giving me a nice simple single seam line from the corner of the cuff vent.
While I have the sleeve in a flat form, I can easily set the three buttonholes for the cuff vent.
The patches are real leather and have pre-pierced sewing holes around the edges.
These have to be hand-sewn in place and I use a strong top-stitch thread, sewing in a blanket stitch around the patch.
It is SO much easier working the patch while the sleeve is still flat.
Once the patches are done I can finish the sleeves off by sewing the front seam.
They are then ready for setting.